I was considering replacing my stock signals (not tail light, just signals) with some bullet style LED lights.  

I'm NO electrician.  I know ther is supposed to be either a relay or a load equalizer somewhere, but not sure.  I would love to be able to get a pair of plug n play for the KP.  Anyone do this one?  Any instructions or diagrams around for me to look at, or anyone know the proper way to do this?

It's easiest is to wire them into the wiring connectors in the headlight. The Vic's do not have a load equalizer from the factory. When switching to LED's they have less resistance than the stock light lights. The turn cancelling module will flash too fast without the load equalizer(s). This is so you know you have a turn signal out under normal circumstances. The load equalizer balances that difference in resistance. You can get single or dual load equalizers. With a single you need two, dual you only need one. Signal Dynamics and Ness have some good ones. It is not as hard as you might think.

ZZ
Thanks for the info, though I'm not sure I understand it all.
That's why I need a set of instructions and/or a diagram.
Exactly what do you mean when you say you have to
wire them through the headlight?  What about the rears?
How do you wire the load equalizers?  In line with one of the
wires/both wires from the lights?

My pin is an '06.  I do recall reading somewhere that the polarities
are mixed up (front right, I think), but still not sure how to test them,
despite your explanation.

Looks like I may have to recruit my engineering buddies!

Anyways, no plug and play led's, huh?  I don't think I would change the
signals out if I weren't going with led's.  The stockers work fine, just
look cheesy to my eye, especially up close.

Do you have led's on your pin?  (which is a very nicely appointed bike, I
might add!)

I am planning on attempting a few upgrades once the weather breaks,
and the directional lights were one of the things on the potentials list.
I think the pin would look very custom with some nice bullets front and
back. 

Which lights do you have on yours, ZZ?

I should also mention, one of my fav all time blues/rock bands, ZZTop that is!

If you have an 06 you will need th load equalizer and need to reverse the feed on the front signals...

reverse BOTH feeds dsjr?

I took a look at the signal dynamics site.
More money than on ebay, but not too much more,
especially when you consider you have to buy a
special fitting for the rears through Ness if you are
using any old light.

Also, they had some good instructions on their site!

Who else has done this?
Did you guys do your own?

Smatta, the headlight bucket has plugs inside for heated clothing, Headlight, driving lights and the connectors for both turn signals (L&R.) The load equalizers are installed inline with the positive plugs in each L&R circuit. As for the LED's I don't remember the brand but they are $39.95 for the pair. I'll ask my parts guy for you. They are similar to the Eagle Eye ones on the Ness site built they are LEDS (much brighter than the Ness.) I am thinking maybe Drag Specialties? I got the front brackets from Kewlmetal. 

Mark, what about  a dual polarity test light ? Not that much more $ wise & simpler to explain to others.

This is pretty simple stuff. On the chassis side of the harness all the wires are correct

Blue is Left Power

Blue/Red is right power

Black is ground on all 4 lights

 

The problem comes when you try to do the right thing, and clip the plugs off the stock stuff to use on the new stuff. It is there that you will find this in the right front signal....

Looking at the connector the B/R on the chassis side of the harness goes in, and on the stock signal side it switches to the BLACK wire. and the black wire goes in to the connector from the chassis side; coming out as B/R on the signal side

Thanks Kevin
I haven't attempted the install yet,but will get to it.

Do NOT use a test light on anything with electronics that was built after 1980.  I can't stress that enough on all types of vehicles.  Buy yourself a cheap multi-meter from Radio Shack.

 

Just think if an LED can screw up you TCM then what can an incandescent lamp do?  In my mechanic days (shade tree of course) we caused all sorts of problems using test lights on the mid 80's cars.

 

You may never have a problem but it is better to be safe then sorry.

 I am submitting this with the view of clearing up some of the "mystery" that seems to surround the topic of replacing stock incandescent turn signals with LED turn signals, and the associated need for the amazing "load equalizer".
 LED Signal unit designs vary.  I am discussing only those with no intrinsic active electronics, those which require passive loads (resistors or "equalizers") to function, representative of the majority of units out there.
 First, as can be seen in Figure A, the stock turn signal system (one part shown for simplicity) consists of an electronic control flasher and bulb.  The typical control circuit flashes at a rate that is inversely proportional (but non-linear) to the current draw or load of the bulb, in this case for sake of illustration, a bit over an amp, resulting in about 1 flash per second.
 Figure B show the same flasher unit presented with a load consisting of a typical LED array replacing the incandescent bulb.  This load is over ten times less, and due to its inherent design, the flasher unit rate is... very fast... due to the reduced current draw of the LED array as presented to the flasher electronics.
 To correct this typically unusable flash rate, the addition of the "load equalizer" is required.  This item is, in reality, a simple resistor of sufficient value and power handling capability to present a load similar to the old incandescent bulb - nothing more, nothing less.  To accomplish this, the resistor ("Load Equalizer") is connected in parallel with the LED signal as shown in Figure C.  Note that resistors have no polarity, so just hook it in as shown.
 OK, so do we need a resistor for each of the 4 turn signals ?  No.  One per side can be used as shown in figure D, with minimal change in flash rate... simple.  Why ?  The resistor load is very much larger than the LED signal load, so doubling the LED load has only a small relative effect.  The flasher unit controls each side as a pair as shown.
 So, what values of resistor are necessary ?  This depends to a certain extent on the current draw of the LED signal itself, but I have found that an excellent starting point is around 10 ohms... A larger value will increase the flash rate, and a lower value will decrease the flash rate - no mystery.  And what about power capability of the resistor ?  Again, something around 10 Watts as pictured will be fine.  Note that in figure D the equivalent load is about 16 Watts, most of which will be dissipated in the resistor, BUT - if an on/off duty cycle of 50% is assumed for the flasher, then over time the resistor will average about 1/4 of this power dissipation, or about 4 Watts...  10 Watts is safe, and as can be seen, fairly small in dimension.
 What about connecting LED signals without a correct resistor for load ?  Will it damage the electronic flasher ? No.  It will be the same as having one or both bulbs burn out, a condition that is within the normal operational design parameters of the electronics.  The only thing that could do damage would (perhaps) be a short in the signal path... an unlikely scenario if one is careful... this means paying careful attention the to polarity of the LED signal unit !
 In summary:
 - "Load Equalizers" are simply (cheap) power resistors of the appropriate value connected in parallel with the LED Signal to "fool" the flasher electronics into seeing a "normal" load... and producing a "normal" flash rate.
 - LED signal designs vary, so the value of the resistor should be chosen accordingly - 10 Ohms is a good starting value...
 - The power resistors do have to dissipate heat, so appropriate mounting locations should be sought.  I have two 10 watt resistors insulated and free floating in the headlight housing.  Best check how hot they get by turning the signal on and holding the resistor - too hot ?  Electrically insulate and mount it to some metal part for increased heat dissipation.

 Cheers all, ride safe.

 

(Click picture for Hi-Res version from gallery, opens in new window...)

 

whimorris wrote:  I am submitting this with the view of clearing up some of the "mystery" that seems to surround the topic of replacing stock incandescent turn signals with LED turn signals, and the associated need for the amazing "load equalizer".  LED Signal unit designs vary.  I am discussing only those with no intrinsic active electronics, those which require passive loads (resistors or "equalizers") to function, representative of the majority of units out there.  First, as can be seen in Figure A, the stock turn signal system (one part shown for simplicity) consists of an electronic control flasher and bulb.  The typical control circuit flashes at a rate that is inversely proportional (but non-linear) to the current draw or load of the bulb, in this case for sake of illustration, a bit over an amp, resulting in about 1 flash per second.  Figure B show the same flasher unit presented with a load consisting of a typical LED array replacing the incandescent bulb.  This load is over ten times less, and due to its inherent design, the flasher unit rate is... very fast... due to the reduced current draw of the LED array as presented to the flasher electronics.  To correct this typically unusable flash rate, the addition of the "load equalizer" is required.  This item is, in reality, a simple resistor of sufficient value and power handling capability to present a load similar to the old incandescent bulb - nothing more, nothing less.  To accomplish this, the resistor ("Load Equalizer") is connected in parallel with the LED signal as shown in Figure C.  Note that resistors have no polarity, so just hook it in as shown.  OK, so do we need a resistor for each of the 4 turn signals ?  No.  One per side can be used as shown in figure D, with minimal change in flash rate... simple.  Why ?  The resistor load is very much larger than the LED signal load, so doubling the LED load has only a small relative effect.  The flasher unit controls each side as a pair as shown.  So, what values of resistor are necessary ?  This depends to a certain extent on the current draw of the LED signal itself, but I have found that an excellent starting point is around 10 ohms... A larger value will increase the flash rate, and a lower value will decrease the flash rate - no mystery.  And what about power capability of the resistor ?  Again, something around 10 Watts as pictured will be fine.  Note that in figure D the equivalent load is about 16 Watts, most of which will be dissipated in the resistor, BUT - if an on/off duty cycle of 50% is assumed for the flasher, then over time the resistor will average about 1/4 of this power dissipation, or about 4 Watts...  10 Watts is safe, and as can be seen, fairly small in dimension.  What about connecting LED signals without a correct resistor for load ?  Will it damage the electronic flasher ? No.  It will be the same as having one or both bulbs burn out, a condition that is within the normal operational design parameters of the electronics.  The only thing that could do damage would (perhaps) be a short in the signal path... an unlikely scenario if one is careful... this means paying careful attention the to polarity of the LED signal unit !  In summary:  - "Load Equalizers" are simply (cheap) power resistors of the appropriate value connected in parallel with the LED Signal to "fool" the flasher electronics into seeing a "normal" load... and producing a "normal" flash rate.  - LED signal designs vary, so the value of the resistor should be chosen accordingly - 10 Ohms is a good starting value...  - The power resistors do have to dissipate heat, so appropriate mounting locations should be sought.  I have two 10 watt resistors insulated and free floating in the headlight housing.  Best check how hot they get by turning the signal on and holding the resistor - too hot ?  Electrically insulate and mount it to some metal part for increased heat dissipation.  Cheers all, ride safe.

I just installed Detonator mirrors with LED turnsignals.  I put the load resistors in, didn't help.  I did wire in the load eqaulizer, that did the trick.   There were three wires, one to the Left signals (OEM blue on a '09 Hammer), the other to the Right (blue with red stripe), and a ground.  Works awesome.

any pics redbee?